How to Dye the Underlayer of Your Hair: A Step-by-Step Guide (2024)

Co-authored byFrankie Sandersonand Raven Minyard, BA

Last Updated: June 5, 2024Fact Checked

Dyeing the Underside of Your Hair

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1. 1

   Wash your hair the day before you color it. Typically, avoid washing your hair right before you color it. Your scalp will be healthier if it’s protected from the dye with some of its natural oils, and washing the night before you dye it will allow those oils to build back up. In addition, most hair dye brands recommend applying the product to dry hair.^[1]

   • Some semi-permanent dyes work best on clean hair or even require that you wash your hair right before dyeing it, so read the instructions that came in your dye’s box to be sure.
   • If your hair is too dirty, the dye might not be able to penetrate your hair evenly, so don’t try to color your hair if it’s been more than 2-3 days since you washed it.
2. 2

   Put on old clothes and gather your supplies. Hair dye can be messy, and especially so when you’re dyeing the back of your head. Put on an old shirt and some shorts or sweatpants to avoid ruining your nice clothes. Gather old towels, hair clips, a timer, and a comb so you don’t have to hunt them down once the dye is on your hands.^[2]

   • If your dye kit didn’t come with gloves, you’ll need those as well.
   • The process will be easier if you do it in the bathroom and have 2 mirrors, such as a wall-mounted mirror and a handheld mirror, so you can see the back of your head. Use the sink counter as your work station.
   • Spread the towels or newspaper on your floor and/or counter, and keep some extra towels nearby in case the dye spills or splatters.
   • If you don’t have clothes that can be stained, purchase a hairdresser’s cape to wear over your clothing.

   Tip: If you have one, consider wearing an old button-down shirt. That way, you won’t have to pull your shirt over your head when it’s time to rinse the dye out of your hair.

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3. 3

   Comb your hair and part it horizontally behind each ear. Snags and tangles may prevent the dye from saturating your hair evenly, so detangle your hair beforehand. Then, use your comb to draw a line across the back of your head, starting at one ear and ending at the other, at the nape of your neck. This will separate the underlayer from the rest of your hair. Use 2 mirrors if you need help seeing the area.^[3]

   • It will be harder to get a perfectly smooth part if your hair is knotted up.
   • To dye more of your hair, move the line a little higher, like to the tops of your ears. To dye less, lower the part.
   • Do a circular part to include the underlayer of your bangs.
4. 4

   Pin the top part of your hair out of the way. To avoid accidentally dyeing the top layer of your hair, section it off from the underlayer.^[4] Use a hair clip or ponytail holder to secure it on top of your head. Make sure to pull it tight enough that the part is clearly visible, but not so tight that it’s uncomfortable.

   • If you’d like, wrap the top part of your hair in a scarf, but make sure it’s one you don’t mind accidentally staining.
   • If you have small pieces of hair near your hairline, pin them out of the way with bobby pins.
5. 5

   Apply petroleum jelly along your hairline to keep dye off your skin. Scoop up a generous amount of petroleum jelly with your fingers. Then, coat all along your hairline at the back of your neck, from one side of the part to the other. This will form a protective barrier that will help prevent the dye from discoloring your skin.^[5]

   • If you’d like, apply a little petroleum jelly on the hair just above your part to protect it from the dye. However, do not apply it to the hair you’re dyeing.
   • Expert hair stylist Frankie Sanderson says there are products that are “even better” at protecting your skin than petroleum jelly. He recommends putting color blockers on your hairline.
6. 6

   Bleach your hair first if you’re using bright or pastel dye. Unless your hair is naturally very light, bleach it first if you’re dyeing it a vibrant color like teal, pink, or violet. While it’s usually a good idea to visit a salon to have your hair bleached, do it yourself by purchasing a bleach kit and carefully following the directions included in the package.^[6]

   • Consult a stylist before you attempt to bleach hair that has been previously colored. The bleach can react badly with some dyes, causing severe damage to your hair.

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1. 1

   Mix the dye according to the package instructions. Many brands of permanent hair dye come with a bottle of developer and a bottle of dye. To activate them, mix the 2 bottles together. Read the instructions very carefully, even if you’ve dyed your hair before, as the exact technique can vary between brands or even product lines within the same brand.^[7]

   • If you’re using a semi-permanent dye, which includes most rainbow and pastel shades, you may not need to mix anything.
   • Sanderson explains the difference between different types of hair dye: “Demi-permanent is more temporary and sits on the outside of the cuticle. Semi-permanent goes further into the cuticle, and permanent goes all the way inside.”
2. 2

   Put on gloves and apply the dye with an applicator bottle or a brush. Hair dye can irritate and stain skin, so be sure to wear gloves before starting the dyeing process. If your dye kit came with an applicator bottle, mix the dye in it, then apply it directly to your hair according to the instructions. However, you’ll have more control over the application by mixing the dye in a bowl, then brushing it on with a dye brush.^[8]

   • Most commercial hair dye kits come with gloves, but if yours didn’t, buy a pair at a beauty supply store or drug store. It’s a good idea to buy an extra pair anyway, in case the first pair gets a tear.
   • Find a dye brush at any beauty supply store, though a sponge brush from a craft store will also work.
3. 3

   Start at your roots and work your way down. As you begin dyeing your hair, saturate the roots first, as they’ll take the longest for the color to develop. Then, work section by section, coating each piece of hair from the root down to the tips. If you need to, use your fingers to work the dye into your hair.^[9]

   • Make sure to coat the top and bottom of the underlayer.
   • Unless your hair is very long, you probably won’t need to use the whole container of dye since you’re just coloring the underlayer.

   Tip: If you want a 2-tone or dip-dyed effect, paint a darker color onto the tips of your hair first, then add a lighter color on the rest of the underlayer, all the way up to your roots. Make sure to blend the area where the 2 colors meet to avoid creating a harsh line between the 2 colors.

4. See Also

   Mythbusters: Do Bleach Baths Remove Hair Dye?

   4

   Wrap a towel around your shoulders and set your timer. Once you’ve finished applying the color to your hair, slip a towel onto your shoulders to protect your skin from the dye. Read the package instructions to find out how long to leave the dye on, then set your timer and wait.^[10]

   • Don’t pin the colored hair up with the rest of your hair or the dye will transfer.
   • Do not leave the dye on your hair longer than the instructions recommend!
   • Use makeup remover to clean up any dye that got on your skin while you're waiting.
5. 5

   Rinse the dye out with cool water until the water runs clear. After the timer goes off, rinse your hair in cool water to remove the dye. Work your fingers through your hair to make sure you don’t miss any spots. Continue rinsing until the water runs completely clear and you can’t feel any more dye in your hair.^[11]

   • Don’t use any shampoo and avoid using hot water, as these can lift the cuticle on your hair and rinse away the dye.
6. 6

   Apply a deep conditioner to your hair. Conditioner will smooth your chemically-treated hair and will help seal the cuticle shut, which could help your dye last longer. If your kit came with a deep conditioner, apply it to your hair and let it sit for the recommended amount of time. If it didn’t, use your favorite conditioner instead, and leave it on for about 5 minutes before rinsing.^[12]

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